At Milan Fashion Week, Paul Smith unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 (SS26) menswear collection in a laid-back salon-style presentation that blended nostalgia, craftsmanship, and a sense of travel.
On the sidelines of the show, Esquire Middle East caught up with Sir Paul Smith backstage to talk about the new collection, what inspired it, and the process behind the prints and textures.
The SS26 collection unfolds like a travel diary. A warm and expressive colour palette – think lime green, fuchsia, and coral sets the tone, evoking sun-faded landscapes, hand-dyed fabrics, and the heat of summer destinations. These pops of colour are grounded by earthy neutrals, inspired by an old book of Cairo street photography that caught Paul’s eye.
“The book I bought 20-odd years ago in Cairo,” he told us. “It somehow came up the pile.” From there, came charm-like details, scribbled postcard prints, and souvenirs, what he describes as “slightly kitsch” references from his travels to Cairo, Marrakech, and India.
Collages created by hand were transformed into bold prints for shirts, outerwear, and ties – a technique Paul Smith first used in the brand’s early days. The collages included fragments of photographs taken by Paul himself, always with an eye for overlooked beauty. This theme continued into standout pieces like a double-breasted jacket with appliqué birds, and a leather jacket decorated with suede floral motifs – all adding texture and character.
The styling felt like something a well-traveled, effortlessly chic explorer might wear. Tailoring took cues from the 1950s, with cropped jackets and high-waisted, flat-front trousers. The relaxed fits delivered polish without fuss, a shift from the pleated styles seen in past seasons.
Accessories leaned into the spirit of discovery. Models held net bags filled with fresh produce, as if just back from the farmers’ market, while sleek shoes drew inspiration from racing driver gear – crafted from a mix of leather, mesh, and suede for a modern collage feel.
Watch the highlights below.
